Gem-set complicated watches are no longer overlooked or spurned. High watchmaking with a generous serving of precious stones is all the rage...
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Rolex gemmologist checks the quality of diamonds

Luxury is a fast-changing industry. Luxury watchmaking, not so much. Hampered by tradition, classicism, and, more often than not, a lack of vision, it tends to be set in its ways. One of those ‘ways’ is to consider that gem-set watches are a) for women, b) for the bling-loving crowd of hip-hop entertainment, or c) for wealthy clients from the Gulf region with no watchmaking savvy. Yes, there is prejudice and snobbery afoot where gem-set timepieces are concerned, as alluded to in the Unusual Suspects companion piece to this story. The truth is that mechanical timepieces with abundant gem-setting skills on display are in high demand, especially those whose sizes and styles make them compatible with the tastes of men. Yes, men. Cue shock and outrage.
Just the other day, I was invited to a high-brow cultural event in my hometown of Paris, in a posh setting, by a brand whose approach is very conservative. A senior member of staff, young but far from having a penchant for what might be considered the thug life (cringeworthy though such thoughts might be), confessed an amazing fact to me: his dream watch is one of their most famous references…with a rainbow bezel.

Patek P...